What Skylight Installation Involves
Skylight installation starts with locating the rafters and measuring the rough opening against the manufacturer's spec — typically a VELUX or Solatube unit sized to the bay. We strip the shingles back, cut the roof deck with a saw set to the right depth, and frame the curb with pressure-treated lumber that matches your existing joist spacing. The critical work happens before the glass goes in: we lay self-adhered ice-and-water shield over the deck, then set the skylight's integrated flashing pan so water sheds outward, never inward.
The flashing sequence is where most leaks begin. Step flashing tucks under each shingle course, while counter-flashing covers the top edge of the skylight flange. We hand-seal every exposed fastener with a polyurethane sealant rated for UV exposure — at 5,280 feet, the sun eats cheaper caulk in a season. The unit itself gets anchored with ring-shank nails into the curb, not the deck, so thermal movement doesn't pull the fasteners loose over time.
For vented skylights, we run the power cable to a nearby switch and test the rain sensor before we close the roof. Fixed skylights skip the hardware but still get the same flashing treatment. If you want solar-powered blinds, we install the shade track inside the curb and sync it to the unit's low-voltage port. Sun tunnels are a different animal — we run a reflective tube from the roof to the ceiling below, which works well in hallways where a full skylight won't fit.
Every install follows the Denver building code for glazing and egress, and we pull the permit so the work is on record. The underlayment, the flashing, the sealant — each layer is a deliberate defense against the weather, not an afterthought.
Signs You Need Skylight Installation
If you're reading this, you probably already have a problem. Water stains on the ceiling below a skylight mean the flashing has failed — often the step flashing was never integrated with the shingle courses, or the counter-flashing pulled away from the curb. Condensation between the glass panes is a different failure: the seal has broken, and the argon gas has leaked out, leaving the unit fogged and useless.
You might also notice daylight seeping around the frame on a sunny afternoon. That's a gap in the sealant, and it's already letting air — and eventually water — through. If the skylight is more than 15 years old and the gaskets are brittle, replacement is cheaper than repeated repairs. A new unit with modern low-E glass also cuts the heat gain that makes Denver's high-altitude sun turn a south-facing room into a greenhouse.
Other signs are subtler: ice dams forming along the roofline above the skylight, which push water up under the flashing, or granules from the surrounding shingles collecting in the gutters, indicating the roof itself is nearing end-of-life wear. If the roof deck has sagged or the sheathing feels soft when you press on it from the attic, that's rot — and it needs to be addressed before any new skylight goes in.
Our Skylight Installation Process
We start with a site visit, not a phone quote. We measure the roof pitch, check the attic for existing insulation and ventilation, and look at the ceiling joists to confirm the new opening won't compromise the structure. We also inspect the surrounding shingles — if they're curled or brittle, we'll tell you the roof may need replacement before a skylight makes sense. This is the design consultation, and it's free.
Once you approve the scope, we schedule the install. The crew strips the shingles around the opening, cuts the deck, and frames the curb — usually half a day for a single unit. The flashing and underlayment go down next, followed by the skylight itself. We test for leaks with a hose before we leave, not after. The final step is a walkthrough where we show you the work, register the warranty, and answer questions about maintenance.
For leak repairs on existing skylights, the process is faster: we remove the unit, inspect the curb for rot, replace any damaged sheathing, and re-flash from scratch. That's the fix that lasts, rather than another bead of caulk over a failing seam.
Cost Considerations in Denver
Skylight installation in Denver runs from $1,800 to $4,500 per unit, installed, depending on the size, the roof pitch, and whether it's a fixed or vented model. A VELUX fixed unit on a straightforward asphalt shingle roof lands at the lower end; a vented unit with solar-powered blinds and a steeper pitch pushes toward the top. Sun tunnels are cheaper — typically $800 to $1,500 — because they don't require the same structural framing or flashing work.
Roof pitch matters more than most homeowners expect. A steep roof requires more safety equipment and slower work, which adds labor hours. If the sheathing is rotted and needs replacing, that's an extra $200 to $400 per sheet. We give you a line-item estimate before any work starts, so there are no surprises when the invoice arrives.
Warranty & Insurance
New skylights carry a manufacturer warranty — VELUX and Solatube both cover the glass and the flashing for years, and we register it at installation so you're protected. The workmanship is covered by our own guarantee: if the flashing leaks, we fix it at no cost to you.
If your skylight was damaged by hail or wind, your homeowners insurance may cover the replacement. Denver hailstorms with marble-sized hail routinely dent skylight frames and crack the glass. We document the damage with photos, work with your adjuster, and handle the claim from start to finish. You don't pay until the insurance payment clears.
Why Choose Denver Roofing Team for Skylight Installation in Denver?
Denver's elevation and climate punish roof penetrations. Intense UV radiation at high altitude degrades sealants faster than at sea level, and sudden temperature swings cause ice dams that push water into any weak point. We've seen it all — from Victorian-era bungalows in Capitol Hill to post-war split-levels in Highland — and we build every skylight to survive it. We're licensed and insured, we pull permits, and we stand behind the flashing work long after the glass is clean. Call us at 7207840657 for a free estimate.
Signs You Need Skylight Installation
Water Stains Below the Skylight
A brown ring on your ceiling means flashing has already failed, and water is wicking into the drywall. Denver's freeze-thaw cycles widen these gaps every season.
Fogged or Cloudy Glass
Condensation between the panes means the seal is broken and the insulating gas has leaked out. High-altitude UV accelerates this failure, leaving the unit useless.
Daylight Around the Frame
If you can see light seeping around the skylight edge, the sealant has cracked and the gap is letting air — and soon water — through. This is a direct path for ice dams to push moisture in.
Ice Dams on the Roofline
Sudden temperature swings in Denver cause snow to melt and refreeze at the eaves, backing water up under the flashing. A skylight in that zone is the first place it leaks.
Brittle Gaskets Over 15 Years
Old rubber gaskets lose their flexibility and no longer seal the glass to the frame. At Denver's altitude, UV degradation makes them crack and flake far sooner than in other climates.
Hail Damage to the Frame
Marble-sized hail can dent aluminum frames and crack the glass without breaking it outright. A damaged frame compromises the flashing seal, and the damage is often covered by insurance.
What's Included
- ✓ Free on-site inspection and measurement
- ✓ Permit pulling and building code compliance
- ✓ Full tear-off of shingles around the opening
- ✓ Self-adhered underlayment and step flashing installation
- ✓ Manufacturer warranty registration (VELUX, Solatube)
- ✓ Cleanup with magnetic nail sweep
- ✓ Post-install leak test and walkthrough
Related Services
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